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Meson del Prado perfect for birthday bash

by Eric Jackson

Captain Ted Henter Sr., a former Panama Canal pilot, recently came back down to the isthmus for the first time in years to celebrate his 91st birthday, and Ted Jr., a Balboa High grad and Florida resident who sold his computer education company last year, treated his dad and about a dozen other people to dinner at the Meson del Prado on Tumba Muerto. They have several private dining rooms in the back (which makes them a favorite with, among others, the local Jesters, I am told), and this group, including yours truly, congregated in one of them.

Good service is a many-sided concept. When I think of the concept in its formal sense, I think back to when I was a little boy and my mother took me to the Tivoli for lunch. I recall the waiters' formal way of dressing and carrying themselves. Then there are the universal but less formal aspects of excellence, without which an elegant presentation rings hollow, things like prompt and effective attention. Beyond that, a really good waiter is good at sales — not pushy or obnoxious, but informative and ever-so-charming at the soft sell. All of these points of excellence marked our waiter's service. I haven't seen better service in any other Panama City restaurant.

For appetizers we had chilled ceviche de corvina, the seafood platter and the grilled platter to sample. Then we all ordered separately. This being a Panagringo gathering, we mostly opted for seafood rather than poultry or meat. I ordered the snapper filet al ajillo, with steamed vegetables and fries. The Meson del Prado passed the taste test with flying colors, and they got the textures just right as well.

The place has a full bar and a decent wine cellar, which is another reason why this establishment attracts a loyal crowd of regulars. The service standards from the bar are no less impressive than those from the restaurant.

 

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