Spell them genips, or gineps, or call them mamones or Spanish limes, we're talking about Melicoccus bijugatus and they're in season in Panama right now. It's one of many good reasons to visit Panama during rainy season, the off-season for tourism.

The tangy, somewhat acidy yellow fruit that comes around a large beige seed under a soft green shell used to be a cultural litmus test in the old Canal Zone schools. If it was rainy season the teacher was offended by a student having something in his or her mouth during class, you could usually separate the natives from the recent arrivals according to oral contents. If it was gum, it probably was an Army brat or a kid who recently came to the isthmus. If it was a genip (or a Chinese plum, for that matter) it was probably someone who was weaned on Chagres River water.

You don't have to be born in Panama to appreciate the joys and subtleties of genips. However, those of you in northerly climes tend to be out of luck, because these things don't keep well for shipping.

One more reason to visit Panama.

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