My favorite dining establishment in Panama is an unpretentious place in the Interior. Los Camisones, on the Pan-American Highway not far across the Cocle provincial boundary from Panama Oeste, was founded and is run by a classically trained chef with all the impressive credentials. It’s a modest kitchen with dining under a bohio, which has expanded several times over recent years as to accommodate a loyal and growing clientele.

It's not all that they offer, but think seafood, prepared simply but elegantly in Spanish and Panamanian styles.

This time I dined as part of a group of 12, and uncharacteristically some of the orders were garbled. No matter --- the problems were resolved without a fuss and the food was great as usual.

More often than not, when I go to Los Camisones I feast on mollusks, especially the pulpo (octopus). However, I’ve been having the occasional gout attack lately, and to avoid such problems it’s best to limit one’s consumption shellfish, octopus, squid, langostinos and lobster (among other things).

No problem. The day’s catch included corvina, snook, snapper and grouper. ("Catch of the day" is an important concept for Los Camisones, because their menu isn’t a printed list of things to be taken out of the freezer, but the waiter’s recitation of the seafood that has been bought from local fishermen that day.) I did the pargo (snapper) al ajillo (cooked in garlic).

Had I been disposed to risk a sore toe, I might have ordered ceviche de pulpo and the longorones, breaded and fried. Or maybe the lobster, clams, langostinos, or squid. On this evening they didn’t have oysters, scallops or cambombia, all of which they also do very well in several styles when they can buy them fresh that day.

Aggravating my overweight condition was something I was willing to risk that night. Great is the temptation when Los Camisones offers crepes, with ice cream and the flaming Grand Marnier show, for dessert I succumbed, while others around the table chose the flan or the ice cream without the crepes and blue fire.

Los Camisones is identified only by a sign along the road, and it’s easy to pass without noticing when driving between Las Uvas and Santa Clara. If you miss it, you won’t get to know one of Panama’s national treasures.

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