Los Santos is the heartland of what Panamanians call cultura típica, the homegrown folk culture that's distinctly and rather exclusively Panamanian. The province exports this culture to the rest of Panama because its soil tends to be exhausted and eroded and its economic possibilities for young men and women extremely limited.

One time-tested way out of the cycle of rural poverty is through education. Even when economic forces continue to drive the youngsters out of Los Santos, it's education that usually spells the difference between a middle class lifestyle and a life of low- paid machete labor.

The public school in Lajamina, near Pedasi, has some urgent needs that the Ministry of Education isn't meeting. As at other schools around Panama, the parents, students and teachers are trying to raise funds independently to meet the need.

In Lajaminas they're doing it with santeño culture, by way of a cantadera. This is a big party that features a decima singing competition. Decima is in a way the closest thing Panama has to the blues tradition, rural music with a strictly defined meter upon which people improvise lyrics reflecting their lives and values. Sometimes, as with the blues, it's so tragic it's hilarious. Often it's an exchange of good-natured insults --- the most noteworthy example of this usually taking place between the Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo queens and their supporters during Carnival at Las Tablas.

The party, a good opportunity for gringos and others who know little or naught about tipico culture to gain an appreciation of it while supporting a worthy cause, will take place on the evening of Saturday, June 14 in Lajamina, at the cantina on Calle Arriba.

Dino Barkema, a Panagringo who has an aunt in Lajamina, gives the following directions for those interested in this Azuero adventure:

From Panama City go across the Bridge of Americas and head to the interior. At Divisa make a left at the police guard garita. When you get to La Arena you will see a sign on the right side of the road that says "Los Santos." It bypasses Chitre and runs along the outside edge of the town. When you get to the next intersection you have to turn right. It is about 4 miles to that intersection. There should be a sign there that says Las Tablas. Stay on that road until you get to the park in Las Tablas, about 20 miles. Just as you pass along the left side of the park you will hit a T in the road. Make a left turn there. Stay on that road for about 20 miles until you pass Pocri. The next town will be La Laguna. Towards the end of La Laguna on the right side of the road you will see a sign that says Lajamina. Turn right at the sign and go in 4 kilometers. Go into Lajamina until you pass the park then turn right in front of Jardin Tito and head up to Calle Arriba. The benefit Cantadera is at the cantina in Calle Arriba. Once you get into the Pocri area you should see signs advertising the Cantadera in Lajamina. If you get to Pedasi you went 10 miles too far on the main road.

There are no hotels in Lajamina. There are hotels and a pension in Pedasi. Pedasi is 10 miles away. There are also hotels in Las Tablas and Guarare.

This will be the off-season for tourism, so there ought to be room at the hotel or pension. If you are going to extend your visit to the Azuero Peninsulafor a few days, there are some interesting sightseeing and photo opportunities on the country road, nearby Playa Venao heads the list of surfing beaches, and the El Achotines laboratory of the International Tropical Tuna Commission can give you a glimpse of how this planet will feed itself in the future set against a breathtaking coastal backdrop.

Also in this section:
Victoriano Lorenzo remembered
Benefit for Lajamina school

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