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During the NBC broadcast of the Miss Universe pageant, viewers around the world got the official Arnulfista version of Panama's history and culture. According to the party line we are a country with a Spanish heritage and a colorful little assortment of photogenic indigenous people. Millions of people were told that Panama City was founded by missionaries.

Those propositions can be defended in their own ways, but each is so narrow as to distort the reality of who Panamanians are and how our capital came to be.

For example, all agree that the oldest part of the colonial city, Panama Viejo, was one of the major religious centers from which the Roman Catholic faith was propagated across Latin America, and that the city was largely abandoned after Henry Morgan's devastating attack in 1671.

But really, who DID found Panama's capital? Sure, there were missionaries present, but the military and political leader who decided to make it Spain's headquarters on the isthmus was Pedro Arias Dávila --- Pedrarias the Cruel. Moreover, a few years ago at an archaeological dig at the site of one of the old city's convents, the remains of an indigenous town were discovered. Now it's well known that the Americas' original inhabitants were of little consequence to Pedrarias, but now it seems that he took over a town that had existed for 1000 years and called himself its founder.

Moreover, WHO built this old capital? We find what remains of some impressive work by European and Creole architects, but especially in light of the systematic omissions in the standard tour guide lectures we should also note that this city was largely built by black slaves.

In the 20th century Panama City spread to encompass the ruins of the old city, and people began to realize the cultural and tourism value of Panama Viejo. There are various restoration projects underway, involving both public and private entities, and people come from around the world to ponder the site and its significance.

This cathedral tower, which is being restored, is Panama Viejo's best-known landmark.

This old convent was an impressive example of the masons' art in its day.

Nearby, the Banco del Istmo is funding the restoration of this convent building. Notice, however, the contast in the materials. There are lost crafts both in building techniques and the creation of building materials that need to be rediscovered if restored Panama Viejo buildings are to look much like the originals. On the Atlantic side at Portobelo, a lot of effort was made to relearn the lost art of coral masonry and Spanish technical help was needed to figure out how cement was made long ago in order to do a more realistic restoration of the colonial era customs house.

This bridge was once used to bring cattle and produce to market in the city. Now the only traffic is by pedestrian tourists.

Panama Viejo's water wells have been filled with the detritus of centuries. Excavation down to the old water tables, and comparison to where the water is today, would be an interesting study in urban ecology.

Taken from the bridge shown above, this photo shows in the background the Moscoso administration's addition to Panama Viejo, a museum and conference center complex that's open but still under construction.

Also in this section:
A visit to Panama Viejo
Pedro Miguel Boat Club under pressure to close

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