dining

Due mainly to Antillean and Kuna influences, Atlantic siders like their food spicier than in most other parts of the country. However, due to economic factors the tough restaurant business is even tougher in Colon. Thus, even though as far as this Colon buay is concerned Atlantic side palates are more sophisticated than is the Panamanian norm, there’s always just a small selection of fine dining options in the city at the canal’s north end.

Do we now add one more? Or is it more a matter of all competition having been eclipsed and a new local standard having been set, such that we must now say that there’s one fine dining option and then all the rest?

La Puerta de Alcalá, new place on Calle 10 between Avenida Santa Isabel and Avenida Roosevelt, is so good that this question needs to be asked.

The decor is simple, spotless and tasteful, the service is prompt, friendly and perfect, but the main thing is the food. Here the cuisine is an eclectic international blend of the African, Asian, Middle Eastern, New World and Spanish influences that contribute to the local culture. Rather than an “authentic” sampler, you get mostly unique offerings, influenced by various styles.

For an appetizer I ordered a couple of skewers of African-style chicken. Now that Panama City’s Tchissola has closed, La Puerta de Alcalá may be the only place in Panama where you can get chicken in the Angolan-style peanut and pepper sauce --- and a bit spicier than the capital’s late only African eatery --- but all the Angolan versions I have previously experienced serve the chicken on its bones, rather than on skewers. For my main course I had the Beijing-style steak, but it wasn’t shredded for eating with chopsticks, but rather a western-style cut of filete meant to be eaten with a knife and fork, but in an unmistakable Mandarin-style sauce. And so it goes with the Hindu, Arabic and other influences.

This is an excellent restaurant. Dine there now before it closes, or better yet, so that it doesn’t close.

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