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The Greater Caribbean This Week...

Caribbean connections
by Norman
Girvan
Last October
11, the city of Bluefields on Nicaragua's Caribbean coast
celebrated its centenary. The Government of President Enrique
Bolaños turned the occasion into a regional event that
celebrated Nicaragua's Caribbean connections and gave
recognition to that country's its ethnic and cultural
diversity. Among the specially invited guests were the Prime
Minister of Belize, the Foreign Ministers of Jamaica and the
Dominican Republic and the Secretaries General of the ACS and
CARICOM. Their presence symbolised the often overlooked
linkages of history and culture between the communities of the
Caribbean coast of Central America and those of the island
Caribbean.
In Jamaica,
"Bluefields" is well known as a south coast community
whose picturesque white sand beach is hugely popular. Belize,
too, has a "Bluefields Cay". All the Bluefields' are
said to derive their name from the activities of a Dutch pirate
named Blaunveldt who roamed the western Caribbean islands and
the Central America coast in the early 17th century.
Nicaragua's
Bluefields, founded around 1602, came under British influence
in 1633 and remained so until well into the 19th century. As
such, it was part of a chain of British outposts on the Central
American mainland that stretched from Panama to Honduras.
Jamaica, being the nearest British colony on the islands,
became a source of political and military authority and of
population --- Bluefields was administered directly from
Jamaica from 1730 to 1744, when it became the capital of the
newly formed British territory of Miskotolandia. Not until 1894
did the independent Nicaraguan Republic establish military and
political authority over the area, granting Bluefields
municipal status in 1903.
For centuries,
therefore, free people of African ancestry from Jamaica, Belize
and Gran Cayman populated Bluefields, often intermixing with
the indigenous Miskitos people. The latter part of the 20th
century saw an influx of migrants from Nicaragua's Pacific
Coast. Today, Bluefields's population of approximately 45,000
is around 57 percent Mestizo and 36 percent Creole (i.e. Afro-
Caribbean) with the remaining seven percent being Miskitos and
Garifunas.
Bluefields's
culture retains a strongly Caribbean flavour. English is spoken
with a distinctive Jamaican lilt and Jamaican patois is widely
spoken by many people whose only contact with the island lies
in the dim recollections of ancestors handed down from
generation to generation. Blufileña cuisine is an often
mysterious adaptation of Jamaican dishes to the local
environment --- "run-dung", a popular local dish, is
cooked with the meat of the wild pig. Anglo-Caribbean names
also predominate among the creoles population. Reggae is heard
everywhere and dreadlocks are very much in evidence. In the
1980s when Bluefields was made the capital of the Autonomous
Atlantic Region of the South, whose Spanish initials --- RAAS --
- have a suspiciously Jamaican ring. Bluefields is a
fascinating amalgam of 19th century West Indian and 21st
century Central America.
As part of the
centenary celebration a strong contingent of CARICOM
businessmen, mainly from Jamaica, visited Bluefields and held
meetings with the city's business community. Opportunities for
trade and tourism were identified. An air link with Jamaica
directly from Bluefields or via Managua or San Jose,
facilitated by an upgraded airport, would be a big step towards
this. At the centenary, President Bolaños inaugurated
construction of a new airport control tower and several
telecommunications projects. Hence Nicaragua's --- and Central
America's --- Caribbean connections can serve as a vehicle for
cementing new economic and cultural ties with the insular
Caribbean.

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