A road trip to Colon's Costa Abajo

travel

Considering that she was a mayoral appointee, it’s no surprise that the corregidora wouldn’t want you to vote for trash. But this abandoned sign on Piña beach may be even stronger evidence that she has difficulty with spelling.

Colon's Costa Abajo

photos by Eric Jackson

Taking advantage of dry season and the invitation of a New York travel writer who had hired a four-wheeler taxi, this reporter went out to Miguel de la Borda, as far west as the road along Colon’s Costa Abajo goes. It’s an area that may go through great changes if the Panama Canal is expanded in a way that involves the flooding of the Western Watershed to make a new lake to retain the water needed to operate a third set of locks. Moreover, part of this area is subject to the mining claim of Petaquilla Minerals.

The Gatun Locks are the principal developmental obstacle on Colon’s Costa Abajo --- that part of the province west of the canal, which slants west-southwest toward the Atlantic side of Veraguas. A swing bridge that opens between ship lockages has limited capacity, and can be closed for hours at a time when ship traffic is heavy, or days at a time when the locks are being overhauled.

Piña is in many ways an idyllic beach community.

But the problem there, as with the entire Caribbean coast of Panama and indeed of neighboring countries, is that a current that runs from the seas off Venezuela to those off of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula brings debris ashore --- mostly driftwood, but also trash, medical wastes or whatever. Much of this refuse was not dumped in Panamanian waters and some stuff dumped in our seas ends up on other countries' coasts, which is an argument for better regional coast guard cooperation.

Piña boys, like kids all around Panama, find ways to while away their school vacation days. They do so in a setting that most city kids must envy.

Palmas Bellas? Sounds like an apt name for the little town.

Palmas Bellas has a new bridge alongside its old one, but the new one hasn't been opened yet. At least, not for traffic. Both structures seem to be convenient fishing spots for local kids.

While the value of the Cerro Petaquilla mining concession is dubious, one sort of mining activity has long been a mainstay of the local economy. These paleros are gathering sand use in making concrete. There are more and more upscale beach houses going up on the Costa Abajo, but fewer as one goes west.

Though it's dry season, there's always something in bloom along the Costa Abajo. This area is also one of the world's premiere birdwatching places.

The traffic here is hardly as crazy as in the capital, but all communities worry about the safety of their kids.

From the locks to Piña the road is paved, but between the dam and Achiote turnoff the blacktop is in poor shape. Going west from Piña it's a gravel, sand or mud road, often impassable in rainy season. But the Ministry of Public Works and the local politicians do their best to keep the traffic moving.

The Costa Abajo is served by public transportation, like most of Panama's rural areas.

Certain bridges along the way leave something to be desired.

As you get toward the road's end at Miguel de la Borda, heroic efforts are required to keep it open.

The purpose of this photo is not to allege that Miguel de la Borda is a one horse town. Actually, there are several horses there. Plus a few motor vehicles, a number of boats and three grocery stores. The Internet, however, has yet to come to town. The town's most impressive building is a new health clinic, which is locked and to which electricity has not been connected.

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