dining

Globalization was the death sentence for HB. People have their preferences, but to me, this dark liquid was that best that Panamanian brewers made. But then our principal breweries were sold off to foreigners, who brought new brands to the market and killed a number of others, one of which was HB, Panama's only dark beer. It wasn't quite stout, but it was the substantial sort of beer that one could think of eating with a knife and fork without stretching the imagination too far. But alas, no more.

Now, however, just kitty-corner from the Wine Bar on Calle Eusebio Morales in El Cangrejo, we have the Istmo Brew Pub, and among their several products there is the dark Cocle beer.

This is not HB. It doesn't have the same "thickness." It's a bit more caramelized, and slightly hoppier, imparting just a touch more of the bitter taste. But the Istmo Brew Pub's Cocle brew is a worthy dark beer, a pint of which went well with the soundless UEFA Cup soccer game they had on the tube and the tasteful Spanish international popular music they played on their sound system.

I could have tried the food, but I had eaten earlier. I could have tried the several other brands that they make on the premises, but I didn't want to get drunk. There will be other times to try the Istmo Brew Pub's other offerings.

There was a decent sized crowd early on a Wednesday night, mostly seated around the tables outside. I heard at least three languages spoken. It was a gathering place for friends rather than a meat market atmosphere. All of this leads me to suspect that maybe the Istmo Brew Pub --- and Panamanian dark beer along with it  --- will survive.

I hope it does.

Editor's note: Alcohol is one of those vices I can take or leave --- and most of the harder stuff, to tell you the truth, I leave alone because I can't take it. Thus, if ever you see a report on the qualities of Panamanian seco in this section, it won't be written by me. I feel slightly blessed about this, because I know too many people who become slaves to alcohol at the first sip, but then I'm not that blessed --- my own addictive compulsions are nothing to feel superior about. But at least I can go out for a pint of beer and then walk away and write a story like this, whereas others I know would still be back at the bar getting sloppy and obnoxious. If you are one of those others, of course there are more suitable venues for you to catch the soccer game.