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dining

A worthy establishment to name after Ludwig van
by Eric Jackson

Novena --- as in the Ninth. As in the place on Via Argentina with the sign bearing the likeness of Ludwig van Beethoven. As in a vegetarian restaurant.

This reporter went there for lunch the other day, with a reader who paid for the treat. As in battered and fried --- thin crispy batter, crunchy veggies, not greasy, just right --- eggplant, broccoli, celery and carrot entree. As in potato and stringbean soup to which some might want to add salt and/or pepper, but was finely and subtly flavored enough for this reporter to appreciate as was. As in an a very good avocado and beet salad, with orange dressing. As in vegetarian lasagne, and sweet red pepper stuffed with mushrooms in a cream sauce, with brown rice on the side. As in a thick watermelon-strawberry-kiwi drink that they blend fresh on the premises.

It was all very good. This Atlantic side native can get into heavy spicing in both vegetarian and carnivore dishes, but subtlety is what they're into at the Novena, and that's appreciated too.

Panama City offers many an opportunity for vegetarians to dine out, a few of them in exclusively vegetarian places, most of them in places where meat and seafood offerings dominate the menu, particularly the better Chinese establishments. The Novena, one of the exclusively vegetarian places, is clearly one of the better options.

They also make their own chocolate here, although on this visit I didn't try any of that. I'll do it next time. There will be a next time at this place.

Oh, and the Ludwig van Beethoven motif? They have some good taste in classical music here, which they play, not too loud, on the premises. They are also pretty artsy in the presentation of the food you get on the plate.